After the euphoria of completing Alp d’huez we were back in Bourg d’Oisans after lunch and took some time to explore this rustic Alpine village.
You could not help to notice that the village was full of mainly English or Dutch speaking MAMILS who wondered around in a semi trance like state, with glazed eyes and a fixed smile.
Like some scene from the Midwich Cuckoos they operated collectively.
They would visit the large assortment of cycle or cycle related shops where they would smile at the shop keepers and show them plastic cards or give them pieces of paper with the symbol‘€’ prominent
The shop keepers in return would give them assorted gifts from their shelves or hangers.
Personally I did not feel that I had been afflicted but when I got back to my Hotel room I had seemingly acquired some additional luggage to eventually take home.
Amongst the visitors we met two brothers (Greg and Richard Williams)
They had travelled all the way from New Zealand to ride the alps. Their delirium was clearly at a more advanced stage as their cycling Jerseys were inscribed with the words ‘The lost Boys’
Using Bourg d’Oisans as a cycling base offers a variety of different and challenging climbs right on your doorstep.
Within my personal bucket list I sought to complete as many famous Tour de France climbs that I could.
Within my personal bucket list I sought to complete as many famous Tour de France climbs that I could.
As a reward to myself I allowed myself the prospect of several beers and local wine tasting afterwards and the indulgence of purchasing a commemorative road plaque.
These are sold in most cycling shops and feature all of the principal Tour de France Climbs.
High on my bucket list was the Col de la Croix de Fer which allows you a bonus of completing the Col de Glandon at the same time. Their respective peaks are in close proximity.
The literal translation of Col de la Croix de Fer is ‘Pass of the Iron Cross’
When I think of the Iron Cross I think of watching war films as a child and of the German SS Officers wearing cross shaped medals under their chin.
Such awards has been around since the 1190, worn by the Teutonic Knights (Crusaders) an order of Brothers within the German house of St Mary in Jerusalem.
Although I saw myself as a cycling crusader spreading the word of such inspiring two wheeled adventures, I was content enough with my yellow and white road plaques.
On day two we set off north west along the valley bottom (D1091) towards Rochetaillee.
This provides you with just over 4 miles of flat riding to wake your legs up before turning right on the D526 where you immediately pick up the signs for Col de la Croix de Fer.
The road continues to offer little gradient into Allemond where you are confronted with a large dam containing Lac du Verney. Two switch backs take you to the top of the dam providing you with your first glimpse of what lies ahead.
Looking north towards the end of the lake, the valley narrows as the mountains push up almost vertically into the clouds past the curiously named village of Oz.
Although there were no signs of any witches or flying monkeys there was certainly a feel that you were cycling away from civilisation.
After passing through Oz my progress was hindered by a rapidly multiplying gradient.
I felt as if my bicycle was now fixed to a front basket containing an oversized dog looking for a free ride.
Reminiscent of the early stages of Ventoux the route provided long straight sections through dense woodland. The road stretched out in infront providing a constant reminder of its longevity.
At the small village of Le Rivier-d’Allemond the gradient eventually reduces and there is an opportunity to fill your bidon. You should do so as this is the last opportunity until the top.
Believing you are a significant way up the mountain ridge you question you practice your arithmetic.
If the average gradient is only 4.9 % and you have not yet dipped to that level, then how can you appear to making good progress to the top.
The answer is ..........you are not.
Well the truth is.......You were,
Well the truth is.......You were,
After solid climbing for the best part of 40 mins, you are now descending down a series of switch-backs to the bottom of the valley.
Ahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh I shouted, and used a few other words too.
Ahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh I shouted, and used a few other words too.
I felt a bit like a stock broker in a bear market, watching my recent investment fly pass me as I descended through the multicoloured trees.
After reaching as low as you can get both in altitude and spirit I was faced with a 16% wall of tarmac in front of me.
Two other dispirited cyclist ahead of me had obviously made heavy investments too. They had both divorced themselves from their respective bikes and were cursing their reckless speculation.
Two other dispirited cyclist ahead of me had obviously made heavy investments too. They had both divorced themselves from their respective bikes and were cursing their reckless speculation.
Having such an audience prompted greater endeavour on my part and as I passed them I smiled saying in the plumiest of voices that this section was ‘A bit of a rib tickler’
Eventually the gradient reduced to between 7/10% which raised the value of my own emotional stock.
From this point you realise that you are in the wilderness with little sign of life. The valley opens up as you get to the magnificent Lac de Grand Maison where you climb above the tree line.
This day was warm and sunny with scattered clouds which now seemed to be in touching distance as they skidded across your eye-line.
I welcomed this open landscape and rugged beauty despite the fact that our destination was now visible upon a very, very distant and elevated horizon.
In all the books and articles I had read it warned me about this last section. Although the gradient reduces further to mainly 6/8% this section is often cursed with strong headwinds.
It was not so this day.
The conditions were perfect.
At about 2 miles from the summit there is a cafe at the left hand junction to Col de Glandon.
We discussed about which Col we would finish first until I overheard that Glandon was actually only about 200 meters away.
'Instant gratification'- I thought as I jumped back on my bike - not really letting the debate continue.
We then rode the final section up to the Col de la Croix de Fer where there was another cafe which provided our lunch.
At 6,781 feet the view was breathtaking along with the ‘Gipfelkreuz’ Iron Cross.
At 6,781 feet the view was breathtaking along with the ‘Gipfelkreuz’ Iron Cross.
I later found out that these religious placements were actually a Bavarian influence placed on the most notable peaks and passes. They would often be accompanied by a ‘Gipfelbuch’ - a leather bound register within a container to record the passage of persons travelling through.
Our arrival was recorded on Strava, Facebook and Istragram - Oh how the world has changed.
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